Road Rage - Kathmandu style

Thursday: Nov. 6, 2009.

Ok. So, I admit it. I was scared.
Once again, I was in a Mad Max style cab, jockeying through narrow alleyways with stray dogs and school children in blue uniforms blocking our way, and the cabbie seemingly trusting an ear-piercing horn and a higher power to spare us all from disaster.
But this time, there was an added twist: An angry biker was ramming the back of our taxi periodically with enough force to thrust me smashing into the seat in front of me. I’m not quite sure what my cabbie had said 2 minutes earlier, as he rounded the corner, dangerously close to side-swiping the mean-looking motorcyclist in the blue helmet. But it pissed the guy off enough that he was now in hot pursuit of our tiny Suzuki Taxi cab. I tried to keep my cool, assuming that this nice Nepali cabbie would – as promised – get me to my destination in Thamel safely. But as I watched his face grow more livid in the rear view mirror, I could tell that my safety was not top of mind for him. As we pulled up to a crowded intersection, I felt another jolt from the left side of our cab – as our rage-filled stalker caught up with us and rammed us again with his bike. I pleaded with the cabbie. Leave now, and you’ll get your fare. But he was beyond caring about the fare. A split second later, he would be sucker punched through the open passenger window, the rage-filled biker inflicting a decent sized gash over his left brow and freaking me out enough that, duh, I grabbed my bags and jumped into the street, calling for another taxi. Meanwhile, the biker climbed into my former cab, dragging my petite, dangerously cocky driver into the street for a thrashing.
As my new cabbie drove off, I looked behind me, to see the motorcycle stalker clubbing my former driver with his blue helmet as a crowd gathered around in the street, stopping traffic. Road rage, Kathmandu style. Blood everywhere. Someone would go to the hospital for sure.
My new cabbie spoke not a word of English, but after another 25 minutes of circling Thamel, he got me to my destination, earning my eternal gratitude and a 200-rupee tip.
Tomorrow, Kim arrives. Thank God.